The Shocking Truth About Smoke Detectors And Fire Alarms

Discover What Fire Sprinkler Systems Are The Most Effective Protection Against Fire!

One Scottsdale family also thought fire alarms were enough to protect them from fire-with tragic results. Two middle aged and one young adult lived in the house.
Even so, the family was rendered unconscious by smoke inhalation before the fire department could save them. When they arrived, they were able to get all of the occupants out of the house. One survived. One died at the scene, and one died later in the hospital. Traditional fire alarms were not enough to keep them safe.

Discover Why More And More Homes Are Switching From Passive Fire Protection To Active Fire Protection

Fire alarms provide a passive defense against fire: they alert you to a problem, but they do not do anything else to contain a fire. They are passive in their protection abilities.

Approximately 14% of fire alarms malfunction during a fire. Many more fail to work because of user error-the batteries have expired, or the device has been unplugged to prevent it from going off by accident. Fire alarms are so sensitive that a little smoke from food cooking on the stove can set them off-leading many people to unplug them in frustration.

Most home fires happen at night, when people are sleeping. It can take several minutes for a family to wake up, get dressed and get out of the house when a fire alarm goes off-regardless of the noise. Those few minutes are all a fire needs to get out of control. The moment a fire alarm goes off, residents are in a race against the fire-and all too often, the fire wins.

In addition, young children are particularly vulnerable to fire. Children under the age of five typically do not understand what they need to do. They will often hide under a bed or in a closet and usually cannot escape on their own.

The handicapped and elderly cannot move quickly without assistance, and may have trouble navigating stairs and fire escapes in the event of an emergency. Many fire-related deaths involve people with medical conditions who could not move quickly enough to get out on their own.

Active Protection: Why Fire Sprinklers Are So Effective

Fire sprinklers extinguish the fire at its source-before it has a chance to grow. Nine times out of ten, one sprinkler head is enough to extinguish a fire.

The flow of water from fire sprinklers is designed to drop the core temperature of a fire past the point where heat can be maintained. The fire sprinklers put out the fire by removing its heat.
Fire sprinklers also reduce the chances of death by smoke inhalation which is the most common cause of death in case of house fires.

Sprinklers are the most effective means of protecting your home against fire. They are more effective than fire alarms, fire extinguishers, and even the fire department. After just one fire, your family will thank you for it.

Marquetry, Parquetry And Inlay - Their Differences And Their Similarities

Marquetry is the practice of painting with wood, usually with thin veneers, of different colors and grain patterns. Vaneer pieces are cut to size and shape, and glued to a backer board, or a box , or other similar project, forming a picture. When I practice marquetry, I will draw the desired shape on a piece of paper to the correct size, and cut out the shape with an Exacto knife, creating a window in the paper. I then place the "window" on the vaneer of choice, moving it around in trial positions until I am satisfied with the grain direction and pattern. I then trace the "window" on the vaneer and make the cut with the Exacto knife and tape or pin the piece in its respective position on the project. This process is repeated until the picture is complete. Final adjustments are then made, until all pieces fit together precisely.

When I am satisfied with the fit and the overall appearance, I place the pieces upside down on a piece of adhesive shelf liner, and carefully cut the shelf liner around the finished picture. I then place this unit right side up on the vaneer that I am using as my back ground, and trace around the unit with my Exacto knife, then cut this window into the vaneer.

When the fit is satisfactory, I place the picture unit into the window in the vaneer, and tape it in place from the top side, and prepare the surface of the backing for the application of the glue.

I like to use hot hide glue when veneering, because it gives me a little time to make a final adjustment in the placement of the vaneer. I spread the glue evenly on the surface and place the composite on the project. I then cover the composite with a layer of waxed paper and place a piece of plywood over the waxed paper, and either clamp the "sandwich" together or place sufficient weight on it to assure that the glue bond is complete. The waxed paper prevents the plywood from sticking to the project in the event of some squeeze out of the glue, which occurs more often than not. After the glue is set, the vaneer can be trimmed to fit the project.

Parqetry is a similar process, but usually involves repeat geometric patterns, generally with thicker veneers, and larger projects such as counter tops, floors, etc. In this case, I generally cut the pattern pieces, do the necessary sanding and fitting, and then, spread the glue only in an area that can be covered in a few minutes, and place the pattern pieces in the wet glue. It is often necessary to use a notched spreader to apply the glue or mastic, which gives the glue a place to compress without lifting the previously placed pieces. Parquetry generally involves a final sanding after the glue has set.

Inlay is the process of placing a piece of contrasting material into a solid surface, usually wood, but I have seen other instances of inlay. The process is much as I described when placing a composite picture in a piece of vaneer in marquetry.

The first step is to shape the piece that is to be inlaid. The piece is then positioned in its
location on the project, and held securely in place while scribing around the outside of the piece with a very sharp pencil, a metal scriber, or a sharp knife. I prefer to use an Exacto knife because the point is very fine, and the resulting line is very precise. The piece can be held in place with hot melt glue, double sided tape, clamps, or by hand pressure, depending on the size of the piece and what is at hand.

As inlay generally involves a final sanding, I like to spray paint the work area with an acrylic paint that contrasts with the parent surface prior to scribing, because the line shows clearly and the paint will disappear with the final sanding.

I use a rotary tool with a router base and a 1/8" or smaller router bit to remove the material inside the line. I leave a little stock inside the line, and remove the last little bit with a sharp knife and a sharp chisel.

Set the router depth to a little less than the thickness of the piece to be inlaid. I generally place a couple of scraps of the inlay material under the router base, and a piece of paper under the bit on a good flat surface, and adjust the depth to just touch the paper. This allows the inlay to protrude above the surface of the parent by the thickness of the paper and the thickness of the glue film. It is much easier to sand the inlay flush with the surface of the parent, than to sand the entire surface flush with the inlay.

Night Vision for Security

A staple tool in any action movie is the night vision. Whether it is a set of goggles, a camera, or some other form of surveillance, the effect of that grey grainy image is astounding. Whether it is for sport, surveillance, or just for fun, any person can harness the power of such a remarkable tool with the purchase of a night vision item.

Night vision works in one of two ways: through image enhancement or thermal imaging. Image enhancement takes whatever visible light that is available and combines it with light lower on the spectrum that is unperceivable to the naked eye. This has the effect of illuminating the viewer's surroundings. On the other hand, thermal imaging captures light from higher on the spectrum to create illumination. The light that is captured is the light emitted whe the object releases heat.

The decision of whether to opt for image enhancement or thermal imaging night vision is really a matter of personal choice. Image enhancement devices are more commonly used and easier to find. They offer excellent images, especially when used outdoors. On the other hand, no environment can be too "dark" for a thermal imaging device.

If you are considering a thermal imaging product you can evaluate the quality by assessing a few specific areas of criteria. The first is the device's scan rate. A rate of thirty times per second is considered optimal and obviously anything above this is superior. The second consideration is whether you would like your devise to be un-cooled or cryogenically cooled. Un-cooled devises are easy to find, operate at room temperature, and run silently on a built in battery. Cryogenically cooled devises are more difficult to find, more expensive, and very delicate; but they do offer astounding image resolution.

Night vision tools come in a variety of forms including night vision scopes, night vision binoculars, and night vision cameras. Night vision scopes are monocular tools that can be handheld or weapon mounted. This tool is best for specific item viewing rather than scanning. For scanning, the better choice would be night vision goggles, also known as night vision binoculars. These goggles can be either handheld, or worn on the head allowing for full mobility and constant use. Finally, night vision cameras are a necessity for any area at risk of a security breach. Considering that crime rates increase at night, it only makes sense that your security camera wor at its best in the dark.

With this basic information under your belt it's time to researching specific products. A great place to start is with www.bljsselfdefense.com . This company offers a wide variety of items, including several night vision devices, and provides consumers with education on self protection. In addition to the onlin resources, BLJ's Enterprises supplies its customers with personal attention to help ensure that they receive the self defense item that perfectly suits their needs.

RESOURCE BOX

Mylar Holographic Windsocks - Garden, Deck, Patio and Boat Decor, Business Attention-Getters

Mylar Holographic Windsocks are simply beautiful additions to any home or garden as they reflect the sun or moonlight in shimmering sparkles. The 51-inch mylar strips are laser printed with a prism-reflecting surface that displays a breathtaking show of rainbow colors. Available in a variety of colors: aqua, red, blue, purple, gold, and silver, these graceful windsocks can match any color scheme. As a unique decoration, the Mylar Windsock adds an elegant touch to wedding, showers, birthday parties, anniversary, or garden gatherings. Place outside windows for cheerful viewing from indoors. They also attract butterflies and birds to flowers and feeders. Also useful for discouraging deer and intruding animals from houses, barns and gardens. Helps keep birds from flying into, or hitting windows.

The holographic windsock is weather resistant and the color can be revitalized by simply spraying with window cleaner.

Colorful and attention-getting mylar windsocks are great for safety and decorative flags on boats, yachts, and jet skis.

Garden color schemes can be accented with these versatile windsocks. They are particularly striking when several colors are grouped together. Proudly display patriotic colors.

Liven up your business, store, sale lot or real estate with these attractive and unusual attention-getters. They will bring your business appearance to a whole new level by adding movement and color.

Use Mylar Holographic Foil Windsocks to enhance your yard, garden, deck, patio, boat or business with beautiful reflections of nature's own colors.

Mylar Windsocks make a great gift for any age and are lightweight and easily shipped.

Why Bare Root Roses Are A Stand Out Choice

Bare root roses are not very pretty when they arrive at your door. They're dormant stock and brown roots, but since there's no chance of transplant shock, they're a great choice for beginning your rose garden. They're grown in fields, dug out in the fall, put into cold storage, then shipped to you. You can then plant them in early spring in virtually any part of the country.

One advantage of choosing bare root roses is the selection. You have a much wider range of choices then in a standard nursery. Depending on where you live, you can plant as early as February, which allows the root system to become well established earlier. You usually get better first year growth, as well as better quality roses.

When your bare root roses arrive, their very survival depends on you doing a few things. First, plant them as soon as possible, or store them in moist soil. You definitely don't want them to dry out! The heeling in process, as it's called, is just laying the roses on their sides, and gently heaping loose soil over the roots. Be sure to keep the soil moist until you plant them. Before that however, you'll want to inspect the roses immediately. Any damaged roots or canes should be snipped off with clean, sharp pruning shears. You don't want disease or rot spreading, specifically root and crown galls, so act quickly.

Additionally, you should soak the roots overnight in either willow water, or add a little rooting activator to the bucket of water. This contains a synthetic Vitamin B1. This will aid in dehydrating the roots. Save the water for later planting use. Next prepare the hole for planting. It should be one and a half times as deep and one and a half times as wide as the root system is long. You'll want to support the rose's root crown by mounding some soil around the hole.

If you've properly prepared your soil, enhancing it isn't necessary. If your soil lacks nutrients, add a little bone meal or ground phosphate rock to the hole bottom. You can try adding a touch of kelp powder into the hole too for added health. Plant according to your hardiness zone. In all cases you'll want to spread the roots down, and over the top of the mounded soil, into the holes bottom. Equally distribute the roots around the mound. Never wrap roots around the rose. Remember, placing them properly will ensure good growth.

There are five types of bare root roses available in the United States. These include the Hybrid Tea-large flowers, about 30-50 petals per stem, one bloom per stem; Grandiflora have large blooms in clusters on the stem; The Floribunda have continually blooming, compact clusters of blooms on each stem; The Climbers include the types above except they climb and spread; and finally there are shrub type roses, which grow to be 5 to 15 feet tall and wide. They're self-cleaning so you don't need to deadhead them. David Austin's unique group of hybridized roses (typically called English Roses) belong to this class.

Adding bare root roses to your landscape has, not only the outlined benefits, but they add interest to your garden with their many types and colours. Bring some into your life, and you won't ever want them to stay forever -- and they almost do.